Istanbul's silent retreat that is fit for a king

The Blue Mosque with island backdrop

The Princes’ Islands make a peaceful contrast to Turkey’s bustling capital, says LINDA McKAY.

Just off the Turkish coast, an idyllic panorama visible from Istanbul, sit the Princes’ Islands. The chain of nine small isles were a place of contemplation and exile in the Byzantine era and are now a place for day trips, a relaxed contrast to the hectic city. Only four accept visitors: Büyükada, the biggest and most popular, Burgazada, Heybeliada and K?nal?ada.
Motor vehicles are banned, making them an oasis of peace and quiet, with horse-drawn carriages and bicycles the main transportation. A variety of boats, from fast sea buses to stately ferries, cross the Bosphorus, costing next to nothing. Then rent a bike and negotiate the winding streets for a glimpse of the secret splendour of the gardens behind the gates of the wooden mansions and villas.

BÜYÜKADA

Covered in pines, the coastline is dotted with white late 19th century villas stretching from the colonnaded Ottoman-style port and in March and April the scent of mimosa plants fi lls the air. In 569 Emperor Justin II built a palace and monastery here, naming it Island of the Prince.
The island was the place of exile for a number of Byzantine empresses. Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky lived in exile here for four years from 1929 after being deported from the Soviet Union, penning his autobiography in splendid isolation.
The best beach in Istanbul is at Yörükali Plaji, the golden sands littered with colourful parasols. With temperatures hitting 38 degrees in June and July the cobalt blue Mamara sea is tempting.
Trek Büyükada’s wooded southern hill (or take a donkey ride) to the tiny Greek Orthodox Monastery of St George. Its interior is stacked with religious icons. I’m delighted to find a café selling wine made by the monks and a panoramic view of the islands from the ridge. The monastery is a place of pilgrimage and every April thousands flock here, picnicking en route under the sweet-smelling pines. Bushes and olive trees on the incline are sprinkled with multi-coloured threads where visitors tie their ‘wishes’ or invocations to the saint.
Don’t miss the Fethi Okyar, a white, colonial-style mansion. This was the home of a former prime minister in 1925, and it’s likely that President Atatürk, founder of the Turkish republic, was entertained here. The Okyar estate vineyards are tended by the monks of St George.

The main ‘Princes’ Island’ offers stunning views

HEYBELIADA

Smaller and more peaceful than Büyükada. There’s a big naval training base, hence the huge number of young athletic men thronging the harbourside. Sit and watch them at Heyamola Ada Lokantas?, a simple waterfront restaurant. Decorated in sage green and powder blues with distinctive gourd lights, it is just as colourful as the array of Turkish mezes brought out to my table.
Delights include smoky griddled aubergine and tomato, emerald green samphire with garlic salt, and sea bass cooked in cream. My favourite is tender octopus baked in olive oil, chili fl akes and thyme, washed down with admirable Turkish white wine.

Ayasofya Hu?rrem Sultan Bath

MAINLAND

My hotel, the Tria, overlooking the Bosphorus, in Sultanahmet (Old Istanbul), is a short tram ride from lively ferry port Kabatas. It is perfectly situated for exploring the delights of the city and the islands.
I dine al fresco on freshly-caught squid as I gaze over the twinkling waters. My room is a traditional world of dark wood, cream linen and bejewelled lamps and from my terrace I am treated to a son et lumière illuminating the domes of the Blue Mosque to the left and Hagia Sophia to the right.
I wake at sunrise to the sound of the call to prayer and then delve into the Byzantine and Ottoman eras on a tour that includes the remains of St Sampson’s hospital, half-buried behind a busy café. When Emperor Justinian became ill, Sampson was the only one to offer a cure and as a reward was allowed to establish a hospital for the poor. It became the largest free clinic in Constantinople.


There are no cars in Bu?yu?kada

I delve underground into the Basilica Cistern, marvelling at vast Byzantine columns and the huge carp swimming lazily between them; this sunken treasure served the city with water for centuries. As well as classic sights (Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Topkap? Palace), we head for the tiny Mosaic Museum. Hundreds of thousands of miniature tiles, some of them picturing mythical creatures like the griffin, date from the 5th century.
I take a Turkish haman at the historic Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Bath, between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Twin domes house softly-lit white marble male- and female-only spas. It was originally named after Roxelana, powerhungry wife of Suleyman the Magnificent, longest-reigning sultan of the Ottoman Empire. I revel in the traditional bubble wash and body scrub followed by an aromatherapy massage with Judas tree oil.
Lemon and pistachio Turkish delight is served in the relaxation lounge. A delight indeed…
THE KNOWLEDGE
Direct Traveller (0844 414 3071/ directtraveller.com) offers three nights at the Tria Hotel Sultanahmet from £229pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes return flights from Stansted to Istanbul. Return journey can be delayed to take in seven nights in a luxury apartment on Heybeliada (0745 501 5754/ karamanyan.com). Unison Turkey (unisonturkey.com) offers tours including Stories of Istanbul. Turkey tourism: goturkey.com